Portobelo, Panama — Travelrags

Condé Nast TravelerDec 28, 2025

In Panama, Going Beyond the Capital City and Its Famous Canal

Road trips between the notoriously narrow country's Pacific and Caribbean coasts, reveal secret villages, untouched isles, and new-wave retreats.

village on Panama's Caribbean coastline

26 things in this story

PortobeloNeighborhoodvillage on Panama's Caribbean coastline
Fort Portobelo-San LorenzoSightUNESCO-designated Spanish ruins
Church of San FelipeSightcathedral housing the Black Christ
Black ChristSightrevered statue in Church of San Felipe
Amy SheraldPlaceacclaimed portraitist, former guest
La Morada de la BrujaHotelartists' residency and hotel in Portobelo
Rose Marie CromwellPlacephotographer friend of the writer
Sandra EletaPlaceartist and owner of La Morada de la Bruja
Francis DrakePlacepirate who died off the coast
Guna Yala IslandsNeighborhoodarchipelago governed by Guna people
San Blas IslandsNeighborhoodformer name for Guna Yala Islands
El Gitano del MarPlace52-foot catamaran for island sailing
San Blas SailingPlaceoutfitter for Guna Yala catamaran trips
Arvin HaghnazarianPlacecaptain of El Gitano del Mar
Coline PotierPlacechef on El Gitano del Mar
Ibin's Beach RestaurantRestaurantrustic stilted restaurant on Banedup island
Ibin LinaresPlaceowner of Ibin's Beach Restaurant
El Valle de AntónNeighborhoodtown in extinct volcano caldera
La Compañía del ValleHotelluxe wellness stay in El Valle de Antón
Chris LenzPlaceowner of La Compañía del Valle
Azuero PeninsulaNeighborhoodpeninsula with cattle ranches and hills
Casa LoroHotelprivate retreat of Aerin Lauder
Reserva Ecológica PanamaesPlace1,527 acres of reforested ranchland
Playa Los PanamaesSightbeach with jagged boulders
Hotel La Compañía Casco AntiguoHotelhistoric section hotel in Panama City
La Morada de la Bruja—The Witch's AbodeHotel

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Portobelo

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In Panama, Going Beyond the Capital City and Its Famous Canal