Condé Nast TravelerDec 28, 2025
In Panama, Going Beyond the Capital City and Its Famous Canal
Road trips between the notoriously narrow country's Pacific and Caribbean coasts, reveal secret villages, untouched isles, and new-wave retreats.
photographer friend of the writer
26 things in this story
- PortobeloNeighborhoodvillage on Panama's Caribbean coastline
- Fort Portobelo-San LorenzoSightUNESCO-designated Spanish ruins
- Church of San FelipeSightcathedral housing the Black Christ
- Black ChristSightrevered statue in Church of San Felipe
- Amy SheraldPlaceacclaimed portraitist, former guest
- La Morada de la BrujaHotelartists' residency and hotel in Portobelo
- Rose Marie CromwellPlacephotographer friend of the writer
- Sandra EletaPlaceartist and owner of La Morada de la Bruja
- Francis DrakePlacepirate who died off the coast
- Guna Yala IslandsNeighborhoodarchipelago governed by Guna people
- San Blas IslandsNeighborhoodformer name for Guna Yala Islands
- El Gitano del MarPlace52-foot catamaran for island sailing
- San Blas SailingPlaceoutfitter for Guna Yala catamaran trips
- Arvin HaghnazarianPlacecaptain of El Gitano del Mar
- Coline PotierPlacechef on El Gitano del Mar
- Ibin's Beach RestaurantRestaurantrustic stilted restaurant on Banedup island
- Ibin LinaresPlaceowner of Ibin's Beach Restaurant
- El Valle de AntónNeighborhoodtown in extinct volcano caldera
- La Compañía del ValleHotelluxe wellness stay in El Valle de Antón
- Chris LenzPlaceowner of La Compañía del Valle
- Azuero PeninsulaNeighborhoodpeninsula with cattle ranches and hills
- Casa LoroHotelprivate retreat of Aerin Lauder
- Reserva Ecológica PanamaesPlace1,527 acres of reforested ranchland
- Playa Los PanamaesSightbeach with jagged boulders
- Hotel La Compañía Casco AntiguoHotelhistoric section hotel in Panama City
- La Morada de la Bruja—The Witch's AbodeHotel