Val d’Orcia, Tuscany

OutsideOct 29

I Hiked the B Side of Italy’s Famous Pilgrim Trail

Walking a stretch of the Via Francigena reveals a side of Tuscany absent from the postcards: empty trails, marble quarries, and unforgettable local food.

17 things in this story

Apuan AlpsSightscarred white from two thousand years of marble mining
Via FrancigenaTrailmedieval pilgrim route from Canterbury to Rome
CarraraNeighborhoodindustry of marble, giant cubes hoisted by cranes
FranciacortaPlaceItaly's answer to Champagne, better than Prosecco
FiatPlaceold-timer offered a single word: "Calma"
Val d’OrciaNeighborhood
Crete SenesiNeighborhood
San QuiricoNeighborhood
RadicofaniNeighborhood
San GimignanoNeighborhood
MonteriggioniNeighborhood
Elsewhere
Camino de SantiagoTrailSantiago de Compostela, Spainhiking routes primarily in Spain
OrigineRestaurantMassa, Italycalamarata pasta with prawns, polpo over cassava mousseline
Locanda de’ BanchieriHotelSarzana, ItalyMichelin-starred inn, former Malaspina residence
LuniNeighborhoodSarzana, Italyancient port for marble trade
BaccalàRestaurantCamaiore, Italy
cacciagioneRestaurantCamaiore, Italy

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Val d’Orcia

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I Hiked the B Side of Italy’s Famous Pilgrim Trail