Luni, Sarzana — Travelrags

OutsideOct 29

I Hiked the B Side of Italy’s Famous Pilgrim Trail

Walking a stretch of the Via Francigena reveals a side of Tuscany absent from the postcards: empty trails, marble quarries, and unforgettable local food.

ancient port for marble trade

17 things in this story

Locanda de’ BanchieriHotelMichelin-starred inn, former Malaspina residence
LuniNeighborhoodancient port for marble trade
Elsewhere
Camino de SantiagoTrailSantiago de Compostela, Spainhiking routes primarily in Spain
Apuan AlpsSightTuscany, Italyscarred white from two thousand years of marble mining
Via FrancigenaTrailTuscany, Italymedieval pilgrim route from Canterbury to Rome
CarraraNeighborhoodTuscany, Italyindustry of marble, giant cubes hoisted by cranes
FranciacortaPlaceTuscany, ItalyItaly's answer to Champagne, better than Prosecco
OrigineRestaurantMassa, Italycalamarata pasta with prawns, polpo over cassava mousseline
FiatPlaceTuscany, Italyold-timer offered a single word: "Calma"
Val d’OrciaNeighborhoodTuscany, Italy
Crete SenesiNeighborhoodTuscany, Italy
San QuiricoNeighborhoodTuscany, Italy
RadicofaniNeighborhoodTuscany, Italy
San GimignanoNeighborhoodTuscany, Italy
MonteriggioniNeighborhoodTuscany, Italy
BaccalàRestaurantCamaiore, Italy
cacciagioneRestaurantCamaiore, Italy

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Luni

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I Hiked the B Side of Italy’s Famous Pilgrim Trail