OutsideOct 29, 2026I Hiked the B Side of Italy’s Famous Pilgrim TrailWalking a stretch of the Via Francigena reveals a side of Tuscany absent from the postcards: empty trails, marble quarries, and unforgettable local food.17 things in this storyBaccalàRestaurantcacciagioneRestaurantElsewhereCamino de SantiagoTrailSantiago de Compostela, Spainhiking routes primarily in SpainApuan AlpsSightTuscany, Italyscarred white from two thousand years of marble miningVia FrancigenaTrailTuscany, Italymedieval pilgrim route from Canterbury to RomeCarraraNeighborhoodTuscany, Italyindustry of marble, giant cubes hoisted by cranesFranciacortaPlaceTuscany, ItalyItaly's answer to Champagne, better than ProseccoOrigineRestaurantMassa, Italycalamarata pasta with prawns, polpo over cassava mousselineLocanda de’ BanchieriHotelSarzana, ItalyMichelin-starred inn, former Malaspina residenceLuniNeighborhoodSarzana, Italyancient port for marble tradeFiatPlaceTuscany, Italyold-timer offered a single word: "Calma"Val d’OrciaNeighborhoodTuscany, ItalyCrete SenesiNeighborhoodTuscany, ItalySan QuiricoNeighborhoodTuscany, ItalyRadicofaniNeighborhoodTuscany, ItalySan GimignanoNeighborhoodTuscany, ItalyMonteriggioniNeighborhoodTuscany, ItalyRead the full piece at Outside →
