Condé Nast TravelerNov 26, 2025
The Big Island's Sleepy East Coast is Waking Up
On Hawaii's Hāmākua Coast, Jen Murphy finds not only verdant canyons striped with waterfalls but also a burgeoning food scene and a community approach to tourism
23 things in this story
- Waimea Butcher ShopRestaurantServes slow-cooked brisket and beer.
- Elsewhere
- Na‘auRestaurantHilo, United StatesPreserves Hawaiian foodways with local ingredients.
- SCP Hilo HotelHotelHilo, United StatesCommunity-minded property preserving original spirit.
- Carlsmith Beach ParkSightHilo, United StatesSnorkel turquoise pools on black sand beach.
- Richardson Ocean ParkSightHilo, United StatesBlack sand beach with sea turtles and fish pond.
- KapohoKine AdventuresPlaceHilo, United StatesOffers kayak tours of Hilo's historic bay.
- Wailoa RiverSightHilo, United StatesRiver with bubbles from a freshwater spring.
- Merrie Monarch FestivalFestivalHilo, United StatesAnnual hula competition, the Olympics of hula.
- Ka Haka ‘Ula o Ke‘elikōlaniPlaceHilo, United StatesHawaiian language school, first college in indigenous language.
- ‘Imiloa Astronomy CenterMuseumHilo, United StatesCenter for astronomy and Hawaiian culture.
- SuisanMarketHilo, United StatesThird-generation family-operated fish market.
- Lili‘uokalani GardensSightHilo, United StatesLargest Edo-style garden outside Japan.
- Locavore StoreMarketHilo, United StatesGrocer receiving poi crafted from Waipi‘o-grown taro.
- The Hidden NēnēRestaurantHilo, United StatesSpeakeasy with craft cocktails and Victorian decor.
- Lehua RestaurantRestaurantHilo, United StatesSpotlights Royal Berkshire pork and deep-fried taro.
- O.K. FarmsPlaceHilo, United StatesFamily-run farm, model for sustainable agriculture.
- Rainbow FallsSightHilo, United StatesBroad cascade viewed from O.K. Farms gazebo.
- King Kamehameha IPlaceHilo, United StatesStatue in Hilo, first capital after unification.
- Big Island Coffee RoastersRestaurantHilo, United StatesMicro-roaster with a new café.
- I Luv DumplingsRestaurantHonoka'a, United StatesServes saimin noodles in a historic building.
- Waipi'o ValleySightHonoka'a, United StatesValley with cliffs, waterfalls, heiau, and black-sand beach.
- Hamakua HotelHotelHilo, United States
- Onomea Scenic DriveTrailHilo, United States