Condé Nast TravelerNov 26, 2025
The Big Island's Sleepy East Coast is Waking Up
On Hawaii's Hāmākua Coast, Jen Murphy finds not only verdant canyons striped with waterfalls but also a burgeoning food scene and a community approach to tourism
Annual hula competition, the Olympics of hula.
23 things in this story
- Na‘auRestaurantPreserves Hawaiian foodways with local ingredients.
- SCP Hilo HotelHotelCommunity-minded property preserving original spirit.
- Carlsmith Beach ParkParkSnorkel turquoise pools on black sand beach.
- Richardson Ocean ParkSightBlack sand beach with sea turtles and fish pond.
- KapohoKine AdventuresPlaceOffers kayak tours of Hilo's historic bay.
- Wailoa RiverSightRiver with bubbles from a freshwater spring.
- Merrie Monarch FestivalFestivalAnnual hula competition, the Olympics of hula.
- Ka Haka ‘Ula o Ke‘elikōlaniPlaceHawaiian language school, first college in indigenous language.
- ‘Imiloa Astronomy CenterMuseumCenter for astronomy and Hawaiian culture.
- SuisanMarketThird-generation family-operated fish market.
- Lili‘uokalani GardensSightLargest Edo-style garden outside Japan.
- Locavore StoreMarketGrocer receiving poi crafted from Waipi‘o-grown taro.
- The Hidden NēnēRestaurantSpeakeasy with craft cocktails and Victorian decor.
- Lehua RestaurantRestaurantSpotlights Royal Berkshire pork and deep-fried taro.
- O.K. FarmsPlaceFamily-run farm, model for sustainable agriculture.
- Rainbow FallsSightBroad cascade viewed from O.K. Farms gazebo.
- King Kamehameha IPlaceStatue in Hilo, first capital after unification.
- Big Island Coffee RoastersRestaurantMicro-roaster with a new café.
- Hamakua HotelHotel
- Onomea Scenic DriveTrail
- Elsewhere
- I Luv DumplingsRestaurantHonoka'a, United StatesServes saimin noodles in a historic building.
- Waipi'o ValleySightHonoka'a, United StatesValley with cliffs, waterfalls, heiau, and black-sand beach.
- Waimea Butcher ShopRestaurantWaimea, United StatesServes slow-cooked brisket and beer.