Kokkie Londo, Haarlem

Smithsonian MagazineJul 30

A New Generation of Chefs Reimagines Indonesian Cuisine in the Netherlands to Tell the Stories of Its Origins

The shift reflects a larger cultural moment, with chefs asking whether the cuisine should remain tied to colonial nostalgia or evolve into a reflection of modern Indonesian identity

Warung serving home-cooked Javanese food.

15 restaurants in this story

Kokkie LondoRestaurantWarung serving home-cooked Javanese food.
nasi campurRestaurantMixed rice dish, harmoniously balanced on a single plate.
Elsewhere
Nona ManisRestaurantOegstgeest, The NetherlandsIntimate dining room with prix-fixe menu.
otak-otakRestaurantOegstgeest, The NetherlandsGrilled fish cake from Palembang.
kerang sambal matahRestaurantOegstgeest, The NetherlandsRaw oysters with Balinese chile relish.
ikan woku belangaRestaurantOegstgeest, The NetherlandsMinahasa-style fish with lemon basil.
terong cabe hijauRestaurantOegstgeest, The NetherlandsEggplant stuffed with tempeh in coconut sauce.
rijsttafelRestaurantThe NetherlandsCommunal spread of rice with small Indonesian dishes.
Toko Iboe TjilikFast foodLeiden, The NetherlandsRestaurant run by Roesdi and Lubis since 1999.
Koki PutihRestaurantAmsterdam, The NetherlandsPop-up prioritizing Indonesian techniques with local products.
lemperRestaurantAmsterdam, The NetherlandsChicken-stuffed coconut rice dumpling.
atjar tjampoerRestaurantAmsterdam, The NetherlandsPickled vegetables sorbet.
rendang pieRestaurantAmsterdam, The NetherlandsBeef curry pie.
rawonRestaurantAmsterdam, The NetherlandsBeef stew flavored with kluwek.
ikan goreng with sambal tomatRestaurantAmsterdam, The NetherlandsFried fish with tomato sambal.

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Kokkie Londo

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A New Generation of Chefs Reimagines Indonesian Cuisine in the Netherlands to Tell the Stories of Its Origins