Custom House, Bangkok

Condé Nast TravelerOct 6

The Tremendous Revival of Bangkok's Chao Phraya Waterfront

Tony Perrottet visits the banks of the Chao Phraya River, where old-school noodle stalls now share space with Michelin-starred restaurants and gilded temples soar over former warehouses turned art galleries.

1888 building opening as The Langham hotel

25 things in this story

PotongRestaurantMichelin-starred Thai Chinese restaurant
Khao San SekRestaurantCasual spot near Soi Song Wat
Chao Phraya RiverSightRiver of Kings, important to Bangkok's history and culture
Wat ArunPlace of worshipMajestic Temple of Dawn on the river
ThonburiTrain stationLess-frequented western side of the waterway
Wat RatchaorasaramSightRarely visited temple with ancient imagery
Phra Buddha Dhammakaya ThepmongkhonSight226-foot-tall golden image of seated spiritual leader
Custom HouseHotel1888 building opening as The Langham hotel
Mandarin Oriental, BangkokHotelCelebrating 150th anniversary, historic literary haunt
Authors' LoungeRestaurantAt Mandarin Oriental, features writer portraits
Talat NoiNeighborhoodAtmospheric waterfront district, 19th-century commercial hub
Thailand Creative & Design CenterArts centreConverted 1940 General Post Office building
Warehouse 30Arts centreWorld War II-era storehouses turned boutiques
Siam Commercial BankSightSplendidly renovated bank established in 1906
Holy Rosary ChurchPlace of worshipCompleted in 1897, Gothic spire
Timo and TintinCaféPlayful café-gallery near a pier
Naam 1608RestaurantWood structure perched over the river
Sala RattanakosinHotelBoutique hotel across from Wat Arun
Opium BarBarHomage to Old Bangkok with unique cocktails
Soi Song WatNeighborhoodRoad parallel to Chao Phraya, now hip
Wanjai Cafe HouseRestaurantLocal favorite for mango sticky rice
Bang KachaoNeighborhoodGreen lung of the capital, wilderness area
Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan ParkSightShaded forest expanse with ponds
Ko KretNeighborhoodCar-free island with picturesque bike paths
Lebua at State TowerHotelHotel with Sky Bar and Sirocco restaurant

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The Tremendous Revival of Bangkok's Chao Phraya Waterfront