Condé Nast TravelerAug 31
In Guadalajara, Chasing Art, Design, and the Love of a Good Time
Mexico's second city is the birthplace of many of its cultural cornerstones, from mariachi to tequila. Longtime visitor Michael Snyder returns to dive deep into its world-class food and craft scenes.
One of the great masters in Tonalá.
25 things in this story
- Valdivia familyPlaceProduce utilitarian red-clay ceramics for generations.
- BernabesPlaceSpecialize in the exquisite cross-hatching technique petatillo.
- Ángel OrtizPlaceOne of the great masters in Tonalá.
- Elsewhere
- Colonia AmericanaNeighborhoodGuadalajara, MexicoEpicenter of Guadalajara's buzzy restaurant and art scene.
- TonaláNeighborhoodGuadalajara, MexicoPlace where craft is actually made.
- MezonteRestaurantGuadalajara, MexicoPours exciting agave spirits from across Mexico.
- Pare de SufrirBarGuadalajara, MexicoWorld's most perfectly named bar.
- Hospicio CabañasMuseumGuadalajara, MexicoOrphanage turned museum with 57 frescoes by Orozco.
- Mercado San Juan de DiosMarketGuadalajara, MexicoBrutalist public market with food, clothes, and electronics.
- La AmericanaNeighborhoodGuadalajara, MexicoWhere Guadalajara's modern architecture was born.
- Casa Bosque EduvigesHotelGuadalajara, Mexico17-room hotel in a restored early 20th-century villa.
- Barragán's Casa ClavijeroSightGuadalajara, MexicoEpitomizes idiosyncratic regionalist style with spare ornament.
- PlataformaSightGuadalajara, MexicoContemporary art space in an abandoned funeral home.
- Cerámica SuroPlaceGuadalajara, MexicoCeramics factory producing work for artists globally.
- Alejandro Julián NúñezPlaceGuadalajara, MexicoWorkshop displaying hand-embroidered guayaberas.
- Albergue TransitorioSightGuadalajara, MexicoBrowse textiles and photographs.
- OccidenteTrailGuadalajara, MexicoShowroom offering a panorama of contemporary design.
- Lofa CeramicsPlaceGuadalajara, MexicoCeramist Andrea Mantecón's sculptural wall tiles.
- MusgoSightGuadalajara, MexicoPeruse ceramics by artists transforming traditions.
- Chamula Hecho a ManoSightGuadalajara, MexicoOverflowing shelves of crafts from central and western Mexico.
- Comala CaféCaféGuadalajara, MexicoServes chilaquiles for breakfast.
- NejayoteRestaurantGuadalajara, MexicoServes gordita de chicharrón.
- Parque Agua AzulSightGuadalajara, MexicoArea with modernist buildings.
- Tortas Ahogadas Don José el de la BicicletaRestaurantGuadalajara, MexicoStall dedicated to the famous torta ahogada.
- Kobuta CoRestaurantGuadalajara, MexicoServes superlative katsu sando with a side of curry.