Westweg, Black Forest

Condé Nast TravelerDec 25, 2025

A New Side of the Black Forest—From Designer Cuckoo Clocks to Revitalized Bathhouses

Tangled up in myth and tradition, Germany's Black Forest once had a reputation for being as antiquated as its cuckoo clocks. But new woodland dwellers are cutting fresh tracks.

Celebrates 125th anniversary; goes from Pforzheim to Basel.

25 things in this story

Romantik Hotel SpielwegHotelChef Viktoria Fuchs' family has run the inn since 1861.
WestwegTrailCelebrates 125th anniversary; goes from Pforzheim to Basel.
GeniesserpfadeTrailWinds through Baden wine country, passing traditional inns.
SchluchseeSightCrisp mountain lake in the High Black Forest.
Black Forest National ParkPlaceCreated in 2014 to protect the region from development.
MenzenschwandNeighborhoodVillage where Elisabeth Kaiser lives in a 450-year-old home.
TribergNeighborhoodHome to one of Germany's highest waterfalls.
HirschenRestaurantTwo-Michelin-starred restaurant where Viktoria Fuchs trained.
Schloss ElmauHotelFamed hotel and retreat in the Bavarian Alps.
Chocolaterie LisaRestaurantSells chocolates, Bollenhuts, and creative cuckoo clocks.
Titisee-NeustadtNeighborhoodSmall town where Chocolaterie Lisa is located.
SchonachNeighborhoodHome to the largest cuckoo clock in the world.
Rombach & HaasPlaceFamily-owned clock manufacturer since 1894.
Selina Haas DesignPlaceModern cuckoo clock designs by Selina Kreyer.
StuubHotelSustainable company with renovated retreats in rural spots.
StaufenNeighborhoodLocation of a Stuub retreat with calming guest rooms.
Baden-BadenNeighborhoodFamous for ornate bathhouses and Art Nouveau character.
Brenners Park-Hotel & SpaHotelBelle Époque-style hotel built in 1834, recently revitalized.
Lichtentaler AlleeSightPark and arboretum in Baden-Baden.
Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof Baden-BadenHotelReopened with The Vault Spa & Suites wellness sanctuary.
Luisenhöhe–Gesundheitsresort SchwarzwaldHotelWellness-focused resort near Freiburg with a bar and restaurant.
Rainhof ScheuneHotel16-room boutique hotel in Kirchzarten, formerly a stagecoach station.
Fritz LauterbadHotelBuilding from 1896 with a modern extension for pools and fitness.
Restaurant BareissRestaurantServes Schwarzwald specialties including roe deer.
MünstertalNeighborhood

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A New Side of the Black Forest—From Designer Cuckoo Clocks to Revitalized Bathhouses