Iti Leiväküük, Obinitsa

Condé Nast TravelerAug 3

Writer Ash Bhardwaj rolls Easter eggs with the Seto people and discovers how ritual, memory, and community outlast political borders.

Café serving hansa liquor and traditional Seto food.

9 things in this story

Iti LeiväküükRestaurantCafé serving hansa liquor and traditional Seto food.
Transfiguration ChurchSightPale-green church at the edge of Obinitsa.
Elsewhere
Seto smoke saunaSightSetomaa, EstoniaTraditional sauna where windows are closed to build heat.
JumalamägiSightSetomaa, EstoniaSacred hill topped with a carved idol of Peko.
PekoPublic artworkSetomaa, EstoniaSeto god of crops, fertility, and beer.
Old Jüri’s soap shopPlaceSetomaa, EstoniaShop making soap using traditional methods and holy water.
Petseri MonasterySightSetomaa, EstoniaCrucial pilgrimage site for the Seto, near the Russian border.
Kirsi FarmHotelMeremäe, EstoniaHomestay and converted farmhouse serving traditional meals.
Seto ToursPlaceSetomaa, EstoniaOffers information and guidance for visiting Setomaa.

Iti Leiväküük