BBC TravelOct 16Nicosia: Inside the world's last divided capitalDecades after the Berlin Wall fell, Cyprus's capital remains cleaved in two and separated by watchtowers, barbed wire and a UN buffer zone.Old Armenian quarter with frozen-in-time homes.8 things in this storyLedra Palace CheckpointSightFirst crossing opened in the UN Green Line in 2003.Ledra PalaceHotelFormer luxury hotel, now site of fighting and UN barracks.ErmouNeighborhoodRestored streets with art, youth, and community.Arab AhmetPlace of worshipOld Armenian quarter with frozen-in-time homes.Victoria StreetSightHistoric street with old homes and quiet atmosphere.Büyük HanMarket16th-century caravanserai with shops and cafes.Samanbahçe EvlerNeighborhoodSocial housing estate with geometric mud-brick units.Rüstem KitabeviRestaurantBookstore founded in 1937, serves coffee and carrot cake.Read the full piece at BBC Travel →