Condé Nast TravelerAug 17, 2026
Pico Iyer on Seeking Quiet in Japan's Less-Visited Hokuriku Region
With their forested peace and classic temples, Ishikawa and Fukui exude Japanese tradition.
12 things in this story
- Ryozo paper millPlaceGuides visitors in making delicate, translucent washi paper.
- Heisenji Hakusan ShrineSightSacred site that housed 6,000 buildings before burning.
- KippojiSightTemple with historical ties to Eiheiji, serves monastic vegetarian meals.
- etoePlace
- Elsewhere
- KayoteiHotelYamanaka Onsen, JapanTraditional ryokan with local crafts, tatami rooms, private onsen.
- Alla ContadinaRestaurantYamanaka Onsen, JapanJapanese chef trained in Venice serves pasta.
- Enuma StationRestaurantYamanaka Onsen, JapanFrench restaurant associated with Kayotei.
- Kakusenkei GorgeTrailYamanaka Onsen, JapanGorge running lyrically along the back of the village.
- HanamurasakiHotelYamanaka Onsen, JapanContemporary ryokan with art and views of Kakusenkei Gorge.
- BashōSightYamanaka Onsen, JapanHaiku poet who stayed here for nine days in 1689.
- HakujukanHotelEiheiji, JapanSerene inn adjacent to Eiheiji temple offers modern comforts.
- Tassajara Zen Mountain CentreSightCarmel, United StatesOldest Zen monastery in the west, set up near Carmel.